Wednesday, October 20, 2010

16.0 "Ten Bucks Says Kevin Gets Stabbed in the Eye with Sal's Fork!" (Barcelona)

We left Valenica early the next morning and began the loonnngg drive to Barcelona.  Along the way we stopped in the town of Morella, which was high up in the mountains (and accordingly chilly).  We spent some time studying a boarding school that was built up there.  We were all a little dissapointed.  Morella is a poor area and evidently couldn't afford the upkeep that a building like that needed.  Also, the boarding school itself was just...austere.  It was very much down to the bare bones in the student residences and was just very depressing.  After looking at the building we walked further up the hill beyond the boarding school into the actual town of Morella.  I've never seen a place like it.  The roads are narrow and the overhangs from every building project so far into the road that it's almost completely covered.  We found an amazing bakery in the town that sold a pastry called "XOXO" for something like 60 cents.  They were DELICIOUS!  It's a piece of fried dough, coated in sugar, and filled with some kind of cream.  NOM NOM

We later arrived in Barcelona, got unpacked, and had a "great" group dinner at a nearby restauraunt.  Hence the post title.  Sal got involved in a very heated debate with a member of our travel group.  He soon began to gesture wildly with a grape that was speared on the end of his fork.  Unfortunately, Kevin, an innocent bystander, was seated next to Sal at the time.  No one forsaw it ending well.

Bill Galloway arrived that night and we were all really really excited.  He was so incredibly organized and came back our tables that night passing out our metro cards for the next three days and had maps ready for everyone.  After dinner we all went back to the hotel lobby and Bill laid out a detailed map of the city.  He showed us where all of the major buildings are that we should definitely hit up and gave us the schedule for the next few days.

Kit, Aaricka, and I spent the rest of the night researching buildings that we wanted to see the next day and mapping out the most efficient route on a map.  We also did some sink laundry and turned out hotel room into a lovely little shantytown.  God knows what the housekeepers thought.

The next morning the three of us met up with another person on the trip and set out for our first real day in Barcelona.  First, we took the metro over to Sagrada Familia.  Well, it wasn't as simple as that.  We somehow got epically confused over the metro vs. tram stops and decided that we needed to begin at a different station than we originally planned.  This resulted in a forty minute walk around Barcelona trying to find a stupid metro stop.  It wasn't a complete loss though because it gave us a chance to actually look at the city.  Anyway....we went to Sagrada Familia, Casa Bottla, the Richard Meier modern art musuem, the Olympic Towers, and this awesome covered market that had this crazy undulating curve making up the roof, laid out in a modern take on Moorish tiles.  The market was ridiculous.  I enjoyed the building itself, of course, but I was really taken by the actual market.  I've never seen a place like that.  There were all of these counters that were the dimensions of a normal deli counter in the States.  Each one sold something different.  There were several dedicated to just fish, one to lamb, three or four to beef, two to just eggs, and numerous ones for breads, fruits, and vegetables.  Everything looked AMAZING!

The next day we loaded onto the bus for our trip to Igualada Cemetary.  We had been lectured before on what a great building this was, but I honestly wasn't completely prepared for it.  It was in a run down condition similar to the one in Morella--but this time it worked for the building, instead of against it.  The initial idea behind the cemetary is that everything is transient.  An obvious statement when it's taken in regard to a cemetary.  But the Moralles went beyond that.  He decided that his own architecture was transient and designed it to help it along that path.  It seems a little counterproductive to design something with the full intention that it will be destroyed and even push it in that direction, but it really brings the whole building back into the site that I had never considered.  The imperfections and the lack of upkeep only helped the building fall back into the site.  In a sense, the cemetary begins to feel like an ancient ruin even though its less than forty years old.   It's definitely a humbling building to visit.

After Igualada we drove up to Monserrat, an old monastery sitauted high up in the mountains.  It's the Disneyland of Monasteries.  I have never seen so many people in my life.  We all crowded into a church in the complex to listen to a choral group perform.  Dear god.  There were like two hundred old Italian ladies there that didn't seem to understand the concept of NOT TALKING.  BAH!  Plus they're all really short and push you to get passed you.  And I am very easy to knock over.

We had an awesome picnic lunch in a more secluded spot of Monserrat, overlooking a massive valley.  Everyone had a little photoshoot of them doing stupid things in front of the valley because there was such a big cliff below.  Zach (Nick's roommate) even took it upon himself to get off the beaten path and climbed (cigarrette in hand) down a portion of the cliff to a lower area.  A lot of heckling ensued.

Our last day in Barcelona we all woke up pretty late and had a very leisurely morning.  We took the metro out to the Olympic park to check out the Calatrava Tower.  It was pretty cool because a) it's Calatrava and b) there was a group of college aged guys doing these crazy flips in front of tower.  We decided that they were definitely ninjas.

The group met at the Barcelona Pavilion at 2 pm that day.  Amazing.  Amazing.  Amazing.  I'm way too lazy to write a whole post about that building, but it definitely deserves it.  I had a great time taking pictures and sketching.  We had a sketchbook review on the benches at the Pavilion that somehow turned into a sketchbook exhibition.  I have to say, we felt pretty cool with all of these people picking up our sketchbooks and looking through them.

That night we had our last dinner and Bill Galloway bought everyone wine to commemorate the day.  We were then treated to an architecture showdown between Bill and Sal.  And let me say, there's no better way to end a meal.

15.0 ...From Swimming in the Beaches of Alicante...to Swimming through the Streets of Valencia...Karma

We arrived in Valenica wayyy too early.  Like ten am.  Of course, it being a national holiday in Spain and it being ten am we could not check into the hotel and instead had to store our luggage there.  We headed out a few minutes later into the pouring rain to go to the Calatrava Complex!!!  BAHHHHH!!!! Unfortunately the weather kind of killed it that day and I really couldn't get any good pictures.  We ended up going to the Calatrava science museum to escape the terrible weather and spent our time playing with all of the exhibits.  The actual building was a little disappointing.  I liked the overall form of the building and how it brought in light but it epically failed craftsmanship-wise.  There were leaks all over the building, even coming through the overhang in front of the entrance like a freaking waterfall.  No exaggeration.   The BEST part of the exhibits was the Star Trek one where they had scripts from the show laid out on a table.  I had an Oscar worthy reading of one of them with a few friends.  It culminated in a scene where I played two characters that were involved in a conversation together.  Classic.

The next day a few of us went back to the complex to actually take pictures.  The weather had cleared out and there was actually a sky.  Seriously, it's like Calatravaland there.  I LOVEEEE ITTT!!!  I even managed to find a loose stone from the walkways around the complex and decided to take it as a souvenir.  Best.  Decision.  Ever.

That's pretty much all for Valencia.  Rawr.

14.0 Ali-ali Alicante Ali-ali Alicante (Alicante...duh)

Yeah so we did NOTHING in Alicante.  Sal wasn't kidding when he said that it was a beach destination with absolutely no architecture there.  Therefore this post will be short.  On our one full day there we laid around the hotel, painted our toenails (bright orange...yeah), went to the pool on the roof, took multiple naps, sketched, probably napped again, and went to dinner.  I did manage to dip my toe in the Mediterranean the day we arrived , but it was only for a second because it started pouring rain immediately after and I ran screaming from the beach.  Always classy.

Wednesday, October 13, 2010

13.0 Food Poisoning: 1 ; Virginia Tech Architecture: 0 (Granada)

It was creepily dark when we woke up the next morning to go to Granada.  Apparently the sun doesn't rise here until a little after 8 am.  This day brought some...surprises.

A couple of people were sick that morning and everyone assumed that they were just hung over.  Then, one by one people starting dropping like flies.  By the time the whole ordeal was over there was something like 17 out of the 29 people that had gotten sick.  It was pretty evident that it was food poisoning.  Unfortunately this also happened on a travel day...and let me tell you, it's lovely sitting in a bus for four hours while everyone is throwing up.  Luckily I never got hit.  Those of us that were still well at the end of the day were in a mild freak out mode...it felt like the plague.  One minute one of our friends would be energized and talking and the next they would have their head in a bag.  Lovely.

Anyway, we still managed to make our way stop in Cordoba that day to see the cathedral/mosque.  Again.  Wow.  I really wish I could have seen it before it became a cathedral, though.  It really felt like all of the Christian decorations were just kind of slapped on while the Muslim carvings and tilework were so seamlessly worked into the building.  We only had a couple of hours there and it's definitely another place I would like to go back to.  I would also love to explore the actual city of Cordoba.

We all made it alive to Granada and checked into the hotel.  A few people headed out but Kit and I were worried about Aaricka so we hung back and ran a couple of grocerey errands for her so that she could eat something when she felt better.  The well people had dinner at the hotel that night.  Let me tell you, that dessert table was AWESOME!

The next day those who had sufficiently recovered (only about 7 stayed home as opposed to 17) ventured out to Alhambra.  It was literally on the opposite end of the city so we took a forty minute bus ride to get there.  If you ever go to Alhambra, buy your tickets WELL in advance.  You can still get in to the general gardens but the real magic of Alhambra is in the Palace.  Luckily they had booked our tickets early because the Palace was completely sold out for the day.  Definitely worth it to see those squinches!  Alhambra felt like a larger version of Alcazar.  It had the same amazing level of detailing and seamless transitions between indoor and outdoor space.  We spent most of the day there before walking back down the hill to explore the city a bit and find food.  The rest of the day everyone just passseeddd out.  I managed to take a wonderful three hour nap and then wake up and sketch for a bit before dinner.  Most everyone was feeling better at that point so we had the whole group there.  Thank god, too.  Safety in numbers.  There were literally two hundred Asian tourists there.  They don't seem to understand the concept of buffet LINES.   It's more like a buffet wrestling match.  Also, they're OBSESSED with fruit.  I saw one guy take a plate back to his table with three pears, an orange, and banana...just for him.   That was normal.  And not his first plate of fruit.

This morning we're on our way to Alicante.  Sal has informed us that there's really nothing there and to take a break and enjoy the beaches.  Can't say I'm complaining.

12.0 Scooter...Taxi...HOORRSSEEE (Sevilla)

We spent our first night in Sevilla at a hotel two blocks away from the one where we met up with the group the next day.  It was great to have a real shower and not listen to people go in and out of the room at like 5 am.  We slept in and checked out at 11:30 and walked down the street to check into the other one.  I went to the grocerey store to pick up some food for lunch...it's so cheap here!  Even wine is super cheap--they had bottles for 1 euro.  Everyone slowly arrived and got caught up on their adventures on independent travel until we all met at 4 pm.  We talked with Sal for a bit about what we were going to see while we were in the Andulsian region and then headed to dinner around 7:30.  I definitely missed eating already paid for dinners...hahaha got sick of eating nutella and bread in London (not a cheap city).  After dinner we were all exhausted for some reason and just laid around and watched Spanish game shows.

The next day everyone went to Alcazar.  We didn't travel in a group because it's mayhem there with all of the tourists so I went with Kit and Aaricka.  We wandered down the road and found the gardens nearby.  There are fountains and tilework everywhere.  It's absolutely amazing.  After wandering around the garden we reached the old Jewish quarter.  It's composed of these little tiny alley ways that open up into these beautiful courtyards.  At one point we even stumbled upon a tiny courtyard with a fountain in the corner and a man sitting on a car playing Spanish guitar.  The weather was beautiful and sunny, making everything bright with the light bouncing off the whitewashed walls.  After a couple of hours we came to Alcazar.  Wow.  Wow.  Wow.  Wow.  I wish I could have had two more days just for Alcazar.  We only got through about half of the palace and even less of the gardens (the gardens are about three times the size of the palace).  Every space was just so well thought out and detailed that we would get stuck in there taking photographs and sketching.  It was absolutely amazing.  There are lime and orange trees everywhere that were so fragrant.  The whole place smells like those trees and rosemary, for some reason.  Dunno where the rosemary was coming from.

Everyone came back to the hotel for dinner later that night and packed up to leave for Granada the next morning.

Tuesday, October 5, 2010

11.0 London Calling!

We moved our bus ride to London up by a day because we were so sick of Amsterdam.  It was an overnight 10 hour ride...but it actually wasn't that bad.  I seriously just passed out shortly into the trip and only woke up for customs and when we were boarded the charter bus into a train car to go through the Chunnel.  Security at Victoria Station was very tight.  They had sniffer dogs and everything, which I guess made sense because we were coming from Amsterdam.  In light of all the recent travel warnings too it makes more sense.

London was amazing!  There's just something so comfortable about the culture there.  It's foreign and exotic without making you feel out of place.  We visited:

-Jean Nouvel's Serpentine Pavilion
-Covenant Gardens
-Bridge of Aspiration (got a tour!)
-Westminister Abbey
-Parliament
-Big Ben
-Platform 9 3/4 (TWICE!)
-Tate Modern
-Millennium Bridge
-Globe Theater
-Manze's Pie and Mash Shop (!)
-Tower of London
-walked across Tower Bridge (took about twenty million jumping pictures...we soon developed an audience)
-City Hall
-Swiss Re
-some random Richard Rogers building that we sketched the Swiss Re from
-British Museum
-Notting Hill (the neighborhood, not the house)

Once again, the hostel was pretty cool.  It was much nicer than the one in Amsterdam but I honestly barely slept because people were always going in and out of the rooms.  On the bright side there was a great common room and everyone was really friendly.  We made a few random friends.  There were a lot of people our age just traveling around and a fair number who had actually moved to London and were staying in the hostel until they found a place to live/a job.

I napped a bit last night as our car picked us up at 3:15 am to go to the airport to catch our flight.  Now we've arrived in BEAUTIFUL sunny Sevilla.  This is our last night on our own and we book what turned out to be a really nice hotel room.  I'm so excited to explore this city tomorrow and see what is here.

10.0 Amsterdammmmmm

As most of the handful of people who actually read this have probably heard.  I was not a fan of Amsterdam.  It was like one giant beach boardwalk filled with prostitutes and weird weird weird people on lots of drugs (example: neighbors in the hostel barking like dogs at 3 pm one afternoon).  I guess that combination of things might appeal to some but it just felt so...gross.

It honestly felt like they were trying to make it feel as skeevy as possible.  The Amsterdam police station was adjacent to our hostel (which was in the red light district) and there was a constant police presence everywhere you went.  We met up with Raviv's friend Idan one night and he informed us that it's actually a really safe place.  There's thousands and thousands of security cameras all over the place and the crowds are filled with undercover cops in addition to the ones in uniform.

I dunno...I could see it as a place that would be fun for a day or two.  But no more.  Four was way too much and we moved our trip to London up by one day.  One thing I did enjoy was meeting some nice people at the hostel.  We had a couple of great guys in our room that were fun to talk to and were normal and not creepy or sketchy.  I honestly didn't run into one rude person while I was there.  Everyone was very friendly and curious about where we were from and what we were doing there.

So anyway...we did managed to see a few cool buildings while we were there:

-the Nemo Center
-Amsterdam Public Library (personal favorite...had great lighting conditions and was overall just a really well done library)
-the Music Center (can't remember the name of this one)...we managed to get a tour of the concert hall while the performer for the evening was practicing...it was really cool
-Arcam center
-ING building
-Orphanage that has been transformed into a series of offices (they built the orphanage to children's proportions...was very interesting)

Anyway...I'm glad I went but I don't think I will be traveling back.